Amsterdam’s Portuguese Synagogue, the Esnoga, is one of the few still-standing reminders of that city’s pre-Holocaust Jewish community. It’s also a moving tribute in wood, stone, and candlelight to the “stiff necks” of its founders — descendants of Anusim who refused to give up their Jewish faith — as a recent visit to the 335-year-old Esnoga showed.
“Over there.”
“Where?”
“There!!”
For a moment I think the nice but exasperated young man would like to throw me into one of Amsterdam’s ubiquitous canals. Or maybe push me into the path of the dozens of bicycles whizzing by us — the bicycle being the preferred means of transportation for many Amsterdam residents both young and old.
But I’m really not trying to tax his patience. It’s just that I’m totally jet-lagged after a sleepless plane ride from Detroit to Amsterdam and I don’t see anything that looks like a synagogue in the direction where he is pointing.
“You mean that long row of short buildings? That’s the Portuguese Synagogue?” I ask trying to mask my disappointment and dismay. After all the main reason why I decided to do a thirteen-hour layover in Amsterdam was to see this synagogue which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in Europe.
“Yes” the helpful citizen replies. “It’s being renovated. See?”
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