LIFESTYLE → COOKS COMPETE Issue 891 · December 22, 2021

Yerushalmi Kugel

Sweet, savory, crispy, and peppery, Yerushalmi kugel is one of those Shabbos-table classics that has earned its place of honor in regular rotation.

Yerushalmi Kugel
Authentic Yerushalmi Kugel

Submitted by Atara Weinstein, Bayit Vegan

My mother comes from a Yerushalmi family, and the first time I had “real” kugel was when I visited her sisters, my aunts, when I was in seminary. When I started making my own, my aunt told me to go to the shuk and buy the most antique-looking, unimpressive pot I could find and use that for keeping the kugel on the plata overnight — it would work much better than any high-end kitchen equipment.

Guess what? She was right! Just like Yerushalmim themselves: unassuming on the outside; spicy, sweet, and full of delicious contrasts once you lift the lid.

YIELDS 1 MEDIUM POT

  • 1 pkg thin noodles
  • 1 cup + 3 Tbsp sugar
  • ½ cup oil
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 Tbsp salt, plus more for salting the pasta water
  • 1–2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Boil noodles in salted water until very soft.

Meanwhile, in a small pot over a medium-low flame, melt 1 cup sugar with the oil, stirring every few minutes. (Don’t worry if it clumps; the clumps will melt.) When the sugar is golden brown, turn off the flame. Be careful not to touch the mixture, since the sugar will keep cooking in the hot oil.

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