LIFESTYLE → ON SITE Issue 1020 · July 17, 2024

Arctic Ghost Town

Pyramiden, a coal-mining outpost founded by the Soviet Union, is frozen in time

Arctic Ghost Town
Pyramiden, an abandoned Soviet mining town in Norway’s Svalbard archipelago, is nestled among fjords, glaciers, and towering mountains. While the forlorn outpost’s Stalinist uniformity seems intent on undoing the surrounding stark natural beauty, its sudden desertion leaves a puzzle for intrepid visitors brave enough to make the journey to this Arctic ghost town

 

ARCTIC GHOST TOWN

Violent gusts of wind swirl snowflakes around the laundry lines, empty but for a single yellow child’s sock. In the open cafeteria, products labeled in Cyrillic still line the shelves, bearing expiration dates from the 20th century. The only sound carried by the wind is the squeak of a playground swing.

Is that the echo of the jubilant cries of children at play? Or is it the whimpering of a curious lone polar bear? Or perhaps it is the wind shrieking between the dark crevices of the Nordenskiöldbreen glacier that looms across the waters of the fjord.

Pyramiden, a coal-mining outpost founded by the Soviet Union, is frozen in time.

In the town square, a gray bust of Lenin gazes sternly over vacant Stalinist apartment blocks. The wall of a home features a calendar embossed with a hammer and sickle, marking the days until May Day, when the Red October piano in the culture building will churn out cheerful tunes for the workers’ holiday.

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