Leavening Agents

Baking is a bit more science than art, but I would assume a sprinkling of baking soda would make an appropriate substitute. Does it? After all, baking powder is a combination of baking soda and cream of tartar. Baking soda is three times more powerful than baking powder, so reducing the amount by a third and adding a splash of something acidic I assumed would get us where we need to go.

But it’s not that simple, as we will see. I experimented on a batch of simple (and delicious) chocolate chips muffins, and the results were definitive.

Chocolate Chip Muffins

YIELDS 8 MUFFINS

• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
• ¼ tsp salt
• 2 tsp baking powder, or ⅔ tsp baking soda plus ½ tsp lemon juice
• ⅓ cup oil
• ⅓ cup milk (any kind)
• 1 egg
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• ½ cup chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C) and grease or line a muffin pan.

In a large bowl, combine dry ingredients and stir well. Make a well in the center and add the wet ingredients. Beat the egg with the oil mixture before incorporating into the dry ingredients. Mix until no streaks of flour remain. Stir in chocolate chips.