Survival on a Promise

What happened to the Aleppo’s historic Jewish sites, including the Great Synagogue of Aleppo?

Aleppo once boasted a glorious Jewish presence, yet decades of tyranny and violence drove virtually all its Jews to safer shores. But the hasty exit of Syrian dictator Bashar al-Assad leaves open some gaping questions: What happened to the city’s historic Jewish sites, including the Great Synagogue of Aleppo?

Aleppo, Syria was a stronghold of Torah and avodah for centuries, until a tyrannic regime forced the Halabi community to flee. But Aleppo lives on within their hearts, and they still hold tight to their traditions, customs, and the memories of the Great Synagogue.

Haret al-Yahud, (Jewish Quarter) Aleppo, Syria, 1840

The footfalls of a lone nocturnal visitor echoed through the silent streets as the great city slept. Turning into a narrow alley off Al-Mutanabbi Street, the man entered the Haret al-Yahud, walked past the ancient tombs and crypts, and looked up at the imposing, beautiful building that loomed before him, silhouetted against the moon. As he approached the heavy, wrought-iron doors guarding the main entrance, he took a deep breath, raised his knuckles, and knocked softly.

Before leaving to the synagogue, his host had instructed him on the community tradition: The first living person to arrive, morning or night, must knock respectfully before entering, for the souls of Tannaim and Amoraim, as well as rabbanim who had belonged to the community throughout its 2,500-year history — most of whom were buried nearby — were surely studying in the batei medrash within. Thus the first person to enter was required to give advance notice of the arrival of the living.

The visitor pushed open the gates… and was greeted by an explosion of sound and light.