LIFESTYLE → SIDE-BY-SIDE Issue 892 · December 29, 2021

The Clearest Chicken Soup

But what about skimming the foam as it bubbles to the surface? Can we ignore the task, or will it compromise the clear broth we’re after?

The Clearest Chicken Soup
Photo Credit: Sina Mizrahi


Photo Credit: Sina Mizrahi

Chicken soup is comfort in a bowl, especially when the broth is deeply rich and golden. Preparing it seems so straightforward — combine chicken, vegetables, aromatics, and seasoning in a pot and let it simmer away endlessly on the back burner.

But what about skimming the foam as it bubbles to the surface? Can we ignore the task, or will it compromise the clear broth we’re after?

I set out to discover if letting the foam reabsorb made any difference in the outcome, because simplifying the simple is the goal.

Golden Chicken Soup

SERVES 6–8

  • 6 chicken drumsticks, skin on
  • 4 stalks celery
  • 3 carrots, peeled
  • 1 large onion, peeled
  • 1 parsnip, peeled
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • 1 fennel bulb, trimmed (optional)
  • 1 bunch parsley or cilantro
  • ½ lemon (optional)
  • 1½ tsp sea salt
  • ½ tsp black pepper or 1 tsp whole peppercorns

Season chicken drumsticks with salt and pepper to taste. Heat a 5-quart soup pot over medium heat for 3–5 minutes. Add a drop of oil. Sear the chicken on all sides until golden, about 2–3 minutes per side. This gives the broth color and flavor. Add 1 cup water and scrape the bottom of the pot to get any stuck-on bits.

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